I swapped all of my kitchen appliances for this one high tech gadget, and it's already making me cook more often

Thermomix TM7: one-minute review

There are few times I’ve been so excited about a home appliance in my career as a lifestyle gadget reviewer as this; I’ve just finished testing the Thermomix TM7, an incredible, almost all-in-one device that can do everything from kneading bread all the way to sous vide. If you’ve ever lamented about your countertop space, this might just be the appliance for you. Still, there’s an interesting journey to perfection – or even just maximizing this device – that might color your choice to join the hype train.

I’ve tested almost all of the key functions available, and I must say I’m very impressed with the range on offer. Do I think it’s the best possible solution for each and every one? No, but I will say it makes tremendous efforts to cover all bases. I’ve made everything from bread to curry and smoothies using the Thermomix almost exclusively for every step, and I’ve never seen an appliance quite like it.

There are, of course, some trade-offs here. It’s bulky, and having a dishwasher is practically a must if you intend to use it regularly. Owing to its very powerful motor, it can also be pretty loud in use; we shudder to use it past 8pm in case our neighbors think we’re testing jet engines. It’ll also be a massive pain to stash away, so prepare for the Thermomix TM7 to be a mainstay on your countertops. If you can handle these setbacks, you’ll be more than happy to introduce it into regular meal prep and cooking rotation, though.

I’m also divided on the included subscription plan; you have three months of access to Cookidoo, wherein you’ll find ample recipes specifically tailored to the appliance, but after that, you face a $89 / £50 annual subscription fee. Of course, the machine is far from redundant after that period if you choose not to join up, but it will require a lot more manual input. In that sense, I don’t love the long-term landscape for Thermomix fans; especially given its lofty list price. I feel they could offer a little more as part of the base offering to help users, but if you’re willing to dole out further, it’s worth the investment.

All that being said, there’s a lot to love here, and a thriving community of users to support your Thermomix journey. New customers are encouraged to join up for one of the in-person training sessions; personally, I didn’t, and I found it pretty easy to learn the ropes and make best use of the machine, so don’t view that as a compulsory step if the effort to make it to a class is too great. Either way, you end up with a powerful, capable and relatively low-effort kitchen powerhouse.

Thermomix TM7: price and availability

• Available for $1,699.00 / £1,349 / AU$2,649 direct from Thermomix
• Encouraged to buy through a Thermomix 'Consultant'

Unlike a majority of the appliances we test and review here at TechRadar, the Thermomix can’t be easily purchased through standard avenues. You won’t find it on the shelves of a department store or lurking on Amazon during Prime Day; instead, you can exclusively buy this appliance from Thermomix itself, either online or through a Consultant, for $1,699.00 / £1,349 / AU$2,649.

What’s a Consultant? Basically, a brand representative who makes a commission from selling and delivering training to new Thermomix customers. Now, I’m not one of these, but you’ll find a fair amount of content online from people who are affiliated with the brand as such.

In addition to the appliance itself, there’s an array of extra tools and accessories that you can purchase to unlock further recipes and cooking methods. The standard package comes with the TM7 base unit, mixing bowl and lid, a Varoma steaming tray, the power cord and three tools: a spatula, butterfly whisk, and simmering basket. You also get three months' access to the Cookidoo platform, which costs $66/£50/AU$89

• Value score: 3.5/5

Thermomix TM7: specifications

Thermomix TM7: design

It’s hard to make a 'pretty' kitchen appliance, but the Thermomix TM7 is far from ugly. Large and in charge, the TM7 is a hefty piece of equipment for your countertops; and given its 8.5kg wight, you’ll probably want to keep it there rather than stash it in the cupboard if you’re looking to use it regularly. It takes up a lot of room, too; it stands at 33.6 x 25.3 x 40.5cm (H x W x D), but you’ll also need to find space for the 13.1 x 38.3 x 27.5 cm Varoma basket and other tools.

While I’ve not tested previous devices, the TM7 is a notable departure from older Thermomix designs. Since 1971, the appliance has seen a fair few design changes, but in the more recent years, it’s stayed fairly consistent until now. A new 10-inch multi-touch display is the headliner here, seated upon the main base and offering a bright surface from which to follow along with recipes. It’s pretty responsive and performs consistently, barring the occasional spot of lag if you're dashing around the screen too quickly.

Above the screen sits the 2.2L stainless steel mixing bowl, clad in a black insulated cover with a large, forward-facing handle. This cover locks in place using a lever mechanism on the right-hand side of the bowl, which keeps the bowl and blade inside secure; I found this could be a little stiff at times, and might be challenging for weaker hands to operate.

At the top of the device sits the lid, which has a removable steam cap so you can mount the Varoma steaming tray on top when needed. The steaming tray is 45% larger than the previous generation, and I found it was ample space to cook enough chicken for a six, maybe even eight-person meal.

One thing I will note about the steaming tray, lid, and outer cover is that the black plastic is an absolute grease-magnet. After cooking, it’s covered in oily marks and smears, and that’s where the dishwasher becomes a vital part of this package. I don’t have one in my apartment, so all cleaning was done manually, and when I tell you I felt cursed by the TM7, I mean it. The lid, in particular, is a real pain to clean by hand, and I had to re-clean it three or four times before I was satisfied the grub was gone.

I’m also not overly keen on the lid design, as it lets out a lot of cooking smells. Having researched older models, that’s a big change that has negatively affected the reception of the device, and while it’s by no means worse than using a saucepan on the stove, it’s definitely worth noting if you’ve got a TM6 or older device you’re not 100% sold on trading in.

• Design score: 4/5

Thermomix TM7: performance

The real reason you’ll want a Thermomix TM7 is all in the performance. My favorite local chef uses his Thermomix to make a wide range of soups and sauces as well as doughs and batters, and that’s just the beginning of what this tool can do in both personal and professional environments.

This stand mixer-cum-blender-cum-steamer-cum-food processor can even sautee your veggies, meaning there’s way less washing up at the end – so long as, of course, you have a dishwasher.

The screen and Cookidoo app will walk you through each step of cooking, starting with measuring out your ingredients with the built-in scales. These are pretty accurate, providing you’ve got a solid flat surface to place the Thermomix TM7 upon.

Most of the recipes I tested were from Cookidoo, but I’ve got really mixed feelings about it. On the one hand, it’s incredibly useful for learning the machine; there’s a great variety of recipes, and I love that you can customize these for your preferences. The customizable home screen and meal planning are genuinely useful, especially for homemakers or power users, and the user experience for following the step-by-step guidance is pretty good.

That being said, I think there’s a lot of room for improvement. Almost every recipe I’ve tried has been way under-seasoned, and there are moments where the instructions aren’t clear enough; pre-heat the oven, sure, but is the suggested temperature for a conventional or fan oven?! Right now, I’m not sure it’s worth the monthly subscription after the initial trial period, though I’ve not actually seen how useful the machine is without it; I’m really hoping it doesn’t render it useless.

A huge miss for me is that you can’t remotely control the Thermomix TM7, despite the Cookidoo platform being accessible on other devices. Thermomix has hinted at this future utility, but I’d ask why they rushed to release the product without it; it feels pretty essential to me in the age of smart devices.

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I started my Thermomix journey by making some of the recommended starter recipes; Thai peanut chicken with coconut rice, which uses only the Thermomix to cook at each stage (though you will need vessels to put some ingredients aside in at various stages). You begin with the Peanut sauce, putting in sliced garlic, roughly cut ginger and olive oil into the mixing bowl. After a three-second whizz, scrape down the sides and whizz again, before sauteeing the contents.

At this stage, I was already pretty impressed; the blades are incredibly powerful and sharp, able to quickly mince my ingredients to a suitable size, and the machine has saved me from having to turn on the stove and grab a frying pan. You can use this setting manually, too, searing and browning ingredients up to 160°C without needing a recipe from Cookidoo selected.

After adding some liquid ingredients to the mix for the sauce and switching on the machine to cook and slowly stir the contents for five minutes, the sauce is finished and can be put to one side while you make the rest. Now, given there’s another 20 minutes before it’s time to reintroduce the sauce, this is one of the early pitfalls for the Thermomix; concurrent cooking for more complex meals isn’t always a choice.

That being said, I loved that in the next stage, the rice is cooked in the main mixing bowl while the chicken and vegetables cook in the Varoma on top using the steam from below. The con? Well, you have to wash the sticky sauce out of the mixing bowl first, and it’s not as easy as the “quick rinse” suggestion the Cookidoo app makes. It was worth it in the end, though; the results were tender chicken, perfectly cooked rice and delicious (albeit very heavy and unhealthy) peanut sauce. It’s a pretty bitty way to cook the meal; I’d sooner cook the sauce separately in a saucepan while the rice and chicken cook to halve the overall cooking time, but it’s neat to see a meal like this made possible using mostly just the machine itself.

Next up, I tried making another suggested starter recipe: Pão de água, or Portuguese water bread. Using just bread flour, water, yeast and salt, the Thermomix TM7 was able to handle everything from mixing to kneading and even proving the dough. However, the process was a little more mixed, here, in my experience.

Primarily, that’s because of the kneading; nobody wants to watch as an expensive appliance visibly teeters while in use. I don’t think it moves enough here to launch itself in any kind of dangerous way, but it can’t be good for the screen, internals or motor to be jostled so much. If I were regularly making large batches of dough, I’d be seriously considering wedging the machine in somewhere it can’t scuttle out from.

However, I have to say, I was really impressed with the results. The dough proved wonderfully within the mixing bowl, and after a slight mishap (read: user error) that saw me unlock the mixing bowl and pour the blade out with the dough, the bread came out of the oven well-risen, delicious and with excellent texture.

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Undeterred, I moved on to my next test: mushroom and cannellini bean soup. Here, I wanted to see if the food processing and blending were up to scratch, and they most certainly were. After cooking down the ingredients, the machine blitzed through the contents and left me with wonderfully smooth, tasty soup. The only issue? It was painfully loud while doing so.

Thermomix claims the TM7 has a quieter motor with “noticeably less noise, especially at low speeds”, but that certainly doesn’t extend to more challenging tasks. I was genuinely worried about damaging my ears when standing close to the device, and no wonder; when I crushed frozen berries in the machine to make sorbet, my sound meter measured 99db (equivalent to a subway train) at only the fifth of nine speed settings. With more crumbly contents, that dropped to 87db, and with sugar alone, it was 73db.

Some of this is to do with the powerful blades, but I have to wonder if the vented lid design and mixing bowl shape mean there’s rubbish sound isolation. I haven’t tried previous models to see if the issue is new, but the TM7’s redesign does have less cladding around the side to help prevent sound spillage, which definitely means blending past 8 PM is a non-starter in my apartment building. I will say, though, the sorbet was delicious, and the butterfly whisk attachment to whip it into a smooth texture is excellent.

Overall, it’s a mixed bag for me, and a lot of this comes down to personal preference; if you’re an accomplished cook who just wants a super powerful blend and mixer for handling some of those dishes that need constant stirring and a thin consistency, you’ll love the Thermomix TM7. Similarly, if you’re a homemaker without a great love for cooking (or washing up!) it’s a great way to make a low-effort meal for a whole family. I would argue it could be really useful for those with accessibility needs, too, but unfortunately, the bulky design and size of the device make it hard to lift and operate.

However, if you live in close proximity to neighbors, have children with early bedtimes, don’t own a dishwasher or just really enjoy the art of home cooking, you probably can (and should!) live without the Thermomix TM7.

• Performance score: 4.5/5

Should you buy the Thermomix TM7?

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How I tested the Thermomix TM7

I used the Thermomix as many times as possible to cook for myself over a three week period, trying both the in-app recipes as well as manual mode. To test the features as advertised, I opted to try most of the recipes from Cookidoo's 7-day crash course, which helped to understand the machine's abilities.

I made bread, baked goods, full meals, sauces, soups, stews and desserts in the Thermomix TM7, comparing the experience of each against my cooking experience. I'm a confident home cook with experience in cooking almost all of the meals I tried by hand, comparing my experience to traditional methods as well as methods that use a range of the best kitchen appliances.

I've been testing home appliances for years now, and in that time I've tried a huge range of the best blenders, best air fryers, best food processors and beyond. I've developed a keen sense for value, performance and good design through my testing experience.