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Colours are well represented from the Panasonic GF5, with lots of vibrancy and pop without being overly saturated.
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Plenty of detail is captured by the Panasonic Lumix GF5's sensor, while edge-to-edge sharpness is really very good, especially when shooting at narrow apertures.
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Even when shooting in a bright backlit condition such as this, the Panasonic GF5's evaluative metering system seems to have done a good job of producing the correct exposure.
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Portraits are a good subject to tackle with the Panasonic GF5, thanks to its creative depth of field effects. Here, colours have been rendered very accurately.
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This image shows the overly warm tones the camera tends to favour when shooting under artificial light in Auto White Balance.
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In this image, the Incandescent White Balance setting has been selected, producing a much more accurate colour.
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Several different filters can be selected when shooting in Creative Control mode - this is an example of the Retro setting.
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The Expressive setting boosts contrast and saturation to produce a bold effect.
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The Cross Process setting can be customised in several different ways, including the colour it chooses to emphasise. This shot is taken with blue as the emphasis colour.
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Here the Cross Process emphasis has been given to green, and gives a more traditional cross processing feel. This can be directly compared with the Olympus Cross Process filter, which produces a stronger, less subtle effect.
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The Star effects picks up highlights in the image to add a fake starlight effect. It won't be to everyone's tastes, but can be quite fun when used in the right situation.
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Selective colour mode enables you to highlight just one colour in a scene, while the rest are converted to monochrome. You can alter the accuracy of the setting. Here only red has been chosen.
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The Toy Camera effect adds a vignette and saturates the colours to give the impression of a cheap toy camera.
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Miniature mode attempts to recreate the effect of using a tilt-shift lens by blurring the top and bottom of a frame. You can move the in-focus area around, and it works best when shooting from a high angle.
